Day One - Paris to
The first day was all about getting myself to the town of Foix, deep in Occitania, to meet Marc. I chose it because Google Maps said there was a castle (Château de Foix).
Day Two -
It was starting to get dark so we decided to stay in a tiny village called Espezel. I find that villages and towns in rural France tend to be well-kept - I haven’t come across many that feel run down or ‘left behind’, even when it feels empty and light on year-round residents. This one was no different, with fresh flowers at the old well at the center of the village, and news bulletins on the doors of the town hall mairie.
The hostel was clean with hot showers.
an hour nap, that delicious state where you instantly fall into a deep sleep where it feels like every muscle in your body had sunk into the bed and was working full speed on rest and repair while the mind blacks out.
Even though I’d had a huge lunch, I was hungry and excited to learn that the only restaurant-bar in town was serving gardiane that night. It’s a slow cooked beef stew from Camargue that bring back fond memories of a past trip to Arles. Marc wasn’t hungry and poked at some green things while I dug into my stew, washing it down with beer and occasionally dipping chunks of bread into a cup of honey that someone had given us.
This village has a population of two hundred and it still manages to have an artisanal boulangerie. Somebody please explain to me how that works out. After knocking back a few espressos at last night’s bar, we picked up a fancy baguette and finished off the rest of the honey. It was a perfect breakfast to start off another day of cycling.
About ten minutes down the road though, just as we were settling in, we encountered a series of inviting signs for cheese. We obligingly got off our bikes to select some pieces of cheese from the family-run fromagerie. Look at that pleased look on Marc’s face!
So much from
Day Five - Back to Paris
Traveling with my bike on the French trains
I had five trains to manage:
TGV - Paris Montparnasse to Toulouse
TER - Toulouse to Foix
TER - Rivesaltes to Narbonne
TER - Narbonne to Toulouse
TGV - Toulouse to Paris
I was nervous about traveling with my bicycle. If an unforgiving hill got the best of me, there’s always the option of walking. But what if I couldn’t get on a train with my bike, or worse, not get off?
Most high speed TGV routes offer a bicycle option when you buy your ticket. The TER Regional trains have free bike racks on a first-come first-served basis. In theory it would be fine. Unsurprisingly, it was more complicated than that!
On the TVG train from Paris, a sticker said that two bikes could fit in the space next to the window but maybe they meant kid’s bikes? I shoved mine in at a precarious angle, and then watched incredulously as it disappeared behind a mountain of suitcases. People whose suitcases were on the bottom were crabby, and people who had to put theirs on top were crabby that they got complained at… luckily Toulouse was the last stop so I just waited for everyone to get off.
On the way back from Toulouse, there was already a mountain of suitcases when I got on. I looked for space in the hallway to stand with my bike. Luckily, another person was in the same predicament and he had a cable lock. With that and some elbow grease, he locked our bikes in the tiny space next to the door (last photo), and we took our reserved seats next to the ‘espace vélo’. The guy had a joke ready for the conductor so we wouldn’t be told to move the bikes - he cheerfully agreed there wasn’t any other option -, pretended not to notice when a lady with a child stroller gave up using the toilet next to it, and matter-of-factly lowered my bike onto the platform when we pulled into Gare Montparnasse. A fine example of how things work themselves out in France. Thank you, sir!
The TER trains were much better but mostly because the trains were empty. It was fun to see the different types of racks and like the geek that I am, I took photos of all of them. The vertical rack was a bit daunting - lift 15kg of unwieldy aluminum and bags above your head onto a big hook while the train moves - but some big guys helped me hoist it up and down.
So with the help of some luck and a few friendly strangers, I managed. Phew.
Of course, much more daunting than the trains was the thought of all of the big hills to be climbed! I did a lot of online research about light backpacking strategies - such a fun topic - but gratefully and sheepishly accepted Marc’s offer to borrow his extra rack and panniers.
I packed and re-packed to get my things as light and non-bulky as possible, running through various scenarios to figure out what I might need or want. Weight is important but at the same time, I’ve spent enough time on conbini-less roads to be aware of the small things that will throw me off-kilter. I don’t like being cold, basing hair-washing frequency on hair dryer availability, mysterious bug bites especially at night, being in unfamiliar locations without food, and not being able to start the day with fully charged devices. The key is to know your body and moods well, and solve for them. Plenty of things don’t bother me at all, like doing laundry in the sink, not having make-up or getting rained on!
It worked out really well in the end, and I’m happy to review here in too-much detail my packing list.
In the removable bag on my front handlebars
Otokoume hard candy
A cash clip with cash, ID and credit cards
iPhone (pulled out for photos, maps)
Glasses in a soft bag with a cloth (This was useful because we rode in the mist a few times)
Head band (so I can take off the helmet…)
A plastic bag of toiletries
Small tube of toothpaste
Two packets of good shampoo/conditioner
Disposable plastic shavers
Tiger balm (For bug bites. And anything, really.)
Sneakers for train-time and walking around town
1 pair of cycling shorts, to alternate
1 pair of long pants for train-time and walking around town
1 long sleeved shirt for off-bike and sleeping
2 sets of underthings and socks
Multiple USB charging station
Garmin charging cable
Battery pack (power bank) and cable
What to add/replace for next time
Nail clippers - I think the rule needs to be that I have a nail clipper for any trip longer than three days.
Coin purse - For the spare change, which actually needs to be around 6-8 euro to be useful.
Small knife - I got one for emergencies during hiking, which turned out to be quite handy for cutting sausages and cheeses. It would have been useful for this bike trip, too.
Waterproof windbreaker - I have half a dozen city jackets but the next trip would be a good time to invest in a technical windbreaker.
Repair kit and extra tube - I left my saddle bag at home for this trip, as Marc offered to carry his kit for the both of us.
A clip for the face towel - I like to have an absorbent piece of cloth closeby during exercise to wipe the top of my sweaty nose. My little towel fell out of my pocket on the first day of riding, which was upsetting because I knew it might happen, so I need a better system…
The right kind of Japanese sun block, to replace the Nivea bottle I grabbed from the Monoprix which leaves white streaks on my skin.
A couple of band-aids? I didn’t bring any first-aid stuff unless you count Tiger Balm, so that could use some thinking.
Plastic baggies. I usually tuck in 1-2 bags for hiking or travel because they’re useful for temporarily storing unfinished food or food trash like banana skins.